Preserving the Past, Nourishing the Future: Appalachian Foodways

Leather britches and Hickory king corn used to make cornbread at the Mars Hill University Harvest Party in 2023.

Apple jelly recipe (Image courtesy of the Bobby McMillon Collection, Southern Appalachian Archives, Mars Hill University)

This is a photograph of a young woman canning over a fire in a fireplace. Notes on the back of the photograph read, "Lavinia Chiltoskie, 15, shows how home canning is done" and "Farmers Federation Pictures, April 8, 1944." (This is image #82-10-381 from the James G.K. McClure, Jr. Collection, Southern Appalachian Archives, Mars Hill University)

This is a photograph of a woman grinding corn in a wooden mortar and pestle while a child looks on. The young woman is likely Lavinia Chiltoskie.

(This is image #82-10-383 from the James G.K. McClure, Jr. Collection, Southern Appalachian Archives, Mars Hill University)

Mars Hill University's annual Harvest Party, where participants make food from local sources, including MHU's Heritage Garden. Roger Howell, Jerry Sutton, and friends are leading a jam.

By MHU students Andrea Kusz, Joelle Tortorella, and Taylor Zima

Food preservation and seed-saving are vital aspects of Appalachian cultural heritage, serving as an important source of individual sustenance and community identity. Techniques such as drying, pickling, and the unique art of leather britches exemplify the ingenuity inherent in Appalachian (and other rural) communities. These practices reflect the region's creative traditions, the historical significance of traditional methods, a diverse collection of cultural influences, and the ongoing efforts to ensure the transmission of these dynamic traditions to future generations.

Preservation is a fundamental practice crucial for the survival of both individuals and communities, primarily in the context of food. Various preservation methods have been developed over the years and have evolved in response to changing needs and advancing technology such as freezing. When it comes to preserving fruits and vegetables, methods such as drying, burying, pickling, bleaching, and the making of jelly and jam preserves are practiced. Leather britches was a popular traditional Appalachian method of drying beans. Once dried, these preserved beans can be stored until they are ready for use (Wiggington, 174-184).  The traditional art of food preservation is still used as a way to connect with family and community members.

Bill Best is recognized for his significant contributions to the collection and preservation of heirloom seeds. These seeds have not been modified for commercial use. His journey from growing his family's heirloom bean seeds to founding the nonprofit Sustainable Mountain Agriculture Center underscores his role as a catalyst for preserving native seeds and creating a seed bank for future generations (Best, 9). The preservation of these traditions has allowed current generations to take part in the art of Appalachian foodways.  Appalachia boasts a staggering array of over 1,500 heirloom fruits and vegetables, making it the most diverse foodshed in the U.S., Canada, and northern Mexico (Todd).

The culinary landscape of Appalachia has been shaped by the impact of immigrants and indigenous people who introduced and adapted various crops. Africans brought to the U.S. during the transatlantic slave trade played a pivotal role in introducing a variety of crops, including corn and cowpeas (Yarnell, 7). The resilience of these individuals was strikingly demonstrated as they braided seeds and grains into their hair to ensure survival. Okra, beans, and watermelon are among the crops clandestinely transported from their homelands (Lunsford et al.). Appalachian foodways also bear the influence of indigenous and European contributions. Crops such as apples, cabbage, and various root vegetables became integral to the region's cuisine, and methods such as pickling and preserving reflected European culinary traditions. The Cherokee, the original inhabitants of the region, contributed with their agricultural practices. They grew crops such as corn (maize), beans, and squash, known as the Three Sisters.

Appalachian foodways hold a special place in the hearts of many. The act of preserving food and the history behind it is crucial to keeping communities connected to their land. An act born out of necessity is now a tradition passed down from generation to generation with a storied history and a diverse melting pot of foods from different cultures. Mars Hill University has a wide variety of resources pertaining to traditional food preservation, including the Heritage Garden. The Heritage Garden is a space where the campus community can participate in the planting and harvesting of traditional heirloom varieties of different crops. These crops are used for the annual Harvest Party at Mars Hill, a gathering to celebrate the harvest and share local food - often using heirloom varieties. These traditions continue into modern times as a link to Appalachian culture. This ability to connect with ancestral practices and share traditional meals within a community is a vital part of Appalachian foodways.

Works Cited

Best, Bill. Saving Seeds, Preserving Taste: Heirloom Seed Savers in Appalachia. Ohio University Press, 2013.

Abrams-Locklear, Erica. “Setting Tobacco Banquet-Style in The Food We Eat, the Stories We Tell.” pp. 33-34 in Contemporary Appalachian Tables. Athens, Ohio University Press, 2019.

Johnson, Elizabeth Ofosuah. How Hair Was Used to Smuggle Grains into the Caribbean by African Slaves - Face2Face Africa. Jan. 2019, https://face2faceafrica.com/article/how-hair-was-used-to-smuggle-grains-into-the-caribbean-by-african-slaves.

Lunsford, Lindsey, et al. "African and Native American Foodways and Resilience: From 1619 to COVID-19." Journal of Agriculture, Food Systems, and Community Development, Sept. 2021, pp. 1-25. DOI.org (Crossref), https://doi.org/10.5304/jafscd.2021.104.008.

Mars Hill Hertiage Garden, mhuheritagegarden.weebly.com

Todd, Roxy. “On the Trail to Preserve Appalachia’s Bounty of Heirloom Crops.” NPR, 3 Nov. 2014, www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2014/11/03/360434287/on-the-trail-to-preserve-appalachias-bounty-of-heirloom-crops.

Wigginton, Elliot. The Foxfire Book: Hog Dressing; Log Cabin Building; Mountain Crafts and Food; Planting by the Signs; Snake Lore, Hunting Tales, Faith Healing; Moonshining; and Other Affairs of Plain Living. Doubleday & Company Inc., 1972. Print.

Yarnell, Susan L. The Southern Appalachians. U.S. Dept. of Agriculture, Forest Service, Southern Research Station, 1998.